Wednesday, July 22, 2009

Interlude: Japanese Television is Your New God


Japanese Television is the Greatest Creative Endeavor in the History of Man. It is entertaining and informative. If you speak Japanese. If you don't, it's even better.

This is called "Japanese Television Shows and What They're Called...Probably".

Boring Dance is How I Celebrate w/ Japanese Alan Arkin

Turbo Parking Zamboni

Intensity Button-Face

Tiny Pink Daimyo of the Over-verse

I Now Pronouce You Man and Baby-Man

Monday, July 20, 2009

Day 5, Part 3: NINJA



Hey.


Hey!


We found Ninjas!


And we made them feed us!

See? The title of this blog isn't just a clever name! It was an honest question that was answered by a restaurant. Golly. What CAN'T they do? Do I mean restaurants or ninjas? Exactly. This post is fraught with mystery.

The history of the ninja is shrouded in mystery. Practitioners of ninjutsu, or "the art of stealth", the ninja were purportedly active from the Kamakura period to the Edo period, specializing in the use of sabotage, espionage, illusion and devastating violence in the service of feudal lords and the Shogun.

After the Edo period, the ninja disappeared, folded themselves into Japanese society, only to reappear in the late 20th century to train giant turtles and open up high-end gourmet restaurants that they named after themselves. These are facts. Verifiable facts.

We had Hirai, our favorite concierge at the luxurious Park Hotel, make reservations at Ninja the second we landed in Tokyo and it's a good thing we did. It's pretty popular, and tends to fill up every night it's open. Located in Akasaka next to Tokyo Plaza, you enter the front door and are greeted by a ninja host, then are lead through a secret passage by a ninja waiter, into the secret ninja underground castle and shown to your table. We were then assigned a ninja waitress, pictured with Carisa above. In between all of this was a drawbridge and a waterfall. I'm dead serious.


Our table was in a room with a sliding door that cut us off from the rest of the dining room. Trying to tell us something, Ninja? I won't fight you on it. I don't want to get a shuriken to the face.


Just keep bringing us drinks.

The room was odd. It was small, kind of warm and the light above our head was directly over Carisa's face. It looked like I was taking her out for a romantic interrogation. We moved the table so she could eat without feeling like a federal witness, and immediately our waitress popped in to move it back.

"The table...we have to move....because there is a ninja coming."


Holy shit.

A note on the staff: Everyone at the restaurant seemed very capable...except our waitress. I have a feeling it was her first week on the ninja-job, and maybe she was flustered from decapitating a petulant customer, but she was really nervous. Very sweet and accommodating and helpful, but unbelievably nervous. Fumbled with the menus. Read the specials wrong. Constantly apologized. We found ourselves rooting for her when she was taking our orders and giving food recommendations. She was our ninja-Rudy. If she had sacked someone at the end of the meal, I would have lost my mind. Whoops. I ruined the ending. Well keep reading anyway. There's pictures.


We ordered the five-course prix fixe cause in our brains we're eccentric millionaires, and it started with this. I don't know what it was, but I liked it.


Next was the soup. Ninja's make real good soup. VERIFIABLE FACT.

We got the main course third. Okay.

It was awesome. Kobe beef is what they serve you in Heaven. Kobe beef and super-cold beer. It has to be. I will accept no other answer.


After the steak, a magician showed up. I'm sorry, ninja-magician. The one foretold in the prophecy of the Bumbling Waitress. He was really, really good. Slight of hand and card tricks. He then presented Carisa with a 9 of hearts, allegedly signed by Lady Gaga. Yup. The ninja's work for you, then give you presents. Unreal.

We then wait a while. I mean, a good long while. We don't know why and we can't hail a waitress because we're locked in the room they use to beat confessions out of people. Finally, Bumbling Waitress comes in with what was supposed to be the third course.


Sushi on driftwood.

There are five total pieces of sushi. Three were fish. One was grass. One was toast. I'll let you guess which ones were the best. I'll give you a hint. It's not the grass or the toast.

After this our adorable ninja waitress informed us that she was leaving for the night and that we were being assigned to another ninja. She probably had to assassinate a yakuza boss or something. Anyway, we met our new waitress, who was also very nice...and just as nervous as the last one. Two for two! We waited for awhile. Again. Then we got our dessert.


They give you this to eat it with. A spoon with an edge. A spife. What a country.


It was very very good ice cream with berries, so the spife was a bit overkill. Still real good though.

We then waited. Again. For a long time. A long long time. I'm assuming that the ninjas were defending themselves against some sort of raid or dragon attack, so they couldn't find our check. It happens. We finally paid and were guided by our new, surprisingly tall ninja-waitress back to the street. We were on our way out, when we were shown this.


Isn't that nice? And you thought they were just here to lurk in the dark and hack people to death with katanas.

Keep an open mind, people. That's how you get steak.

Friday, July 17, 2009

And Now, Stories About Things I Saw In Tokyo That I Was Too Afraid To Take Pictures Of - Odaiba Edition

I love it when stereotypes come to life. I will always have a soft spot in my heart for the redneck with the rat-tail and the Dale Earnhardt Memorial T-Shirt. I will cross the street to walk behind the overweight Italian wearing the pinkie ring, wife-beater and New York Giants sweatpants. If you are a Spanish woman on the bus with ridiculous hoop earrings and nails that belong on a velociraptor, I probably want to be your best friend. These people are the backbone of the human experience. So imagine my delight when I came across not one, but two in Odaiba.

That's right, dear reader. A live, up-close sighting of two forgotten favorites: Rumpled Japanese Businessman with Bored Russian Prostitute.

Oh happy day.

We were walking through the Sega Joypolis, trying in vain to decipher the instructions on the token machines. All of the signs on these machines were in Japanese and everyone we asked for help spoke incredibly fast Japanese. To say I have a newfound sympathy for foreign tourists is a mild understatement. We were jamming coins into slots and swearing softly under our breath when I looked behind us and there they were, standing just a few feet away like a pair of zebra wandering onto our safari path. Rumpled Japanese Businessman and Bored Russian Prostitute. I was suddenly no longer interested in G4 Racer Turbo Supreme.

He was a small man wearing a large suit that looked like it hadn't come off of him in three days except to be bunched up in a ball on the floor of his hotel room while he slept. He had his briefcase on a strap slung over his shoulder that made him look folded over, and the hangdog, baggy-eyed expression of a corporate road warrior. They work frighteningly hard in Tokyo. There was never a time during the day or night when people weren't going to or coming from some sort of office job. I found out later that a lot of people in the city come in from the suburbs to work, stay in a hotel near their job all week, then hop the train back home for the weekends. This guy had that written all over him. A lifer, buying some company to help him kill a Monday afternoon. We'll call him Tadahito.

She was unbelievably bleached-blonde, to the point where I thought her hair might have been made of peroxide. Just ridiculously blonde. Her extensions had extensions. Her skin was ghost white and caked with make-up; bright red lipstick and enough foundation to build an apartment complex on. Her clothes were black with random gold highlights, which was an alarming combo of expensive-prostitute chic and New Jersey housewife couture.

And heels. Jesus Christ these heels. In flats she was probably 5'7". In these heels she was 6'1". It was like being in the same room as a Valkyrie. A Valkyrie hooker from Russia who had stopped to buy a clothes in Paramus. We'll call her Svetlana.

While Tadahito's expression was hangdog salaryman, Svetlana's was the dead-eyed face of a woman who had been in the business for awhile. Not the wild-eyed look of a street-walker, but the one of a professional who was as comfortable as someone was going to get in her line of work.

Both of these people had been in their profession for way, way too long. And it showed. In a way, they complimented each other.

They were playing the game Hungry Animals, which is Hungry Hungry Hippos (best game ever) boiled down to it's simplest elements: throwing balls into the opening/closing mouth of one big hippo head. Party people jump up. Tadahito was counting tokens in his hand as Svetlana threw balls into the mouth of the hippo with surprising intensity. She went from Bored to Competitive. With each shot that went in, tickets unfurled from the bottom of the machine and curled neatly against the baggy leg of Tadahito's suit pants. When the time expired, Svetlana's nose wrinkled, then her face returned to neutral. Tadahito immediately handed her more tokens, as if he were desperate to see an emotion from her other then workman-like ennui. She resumed play.

The next and last time I saw them was as we walked through the food court of Joypolis. They were in line to order, both wearing the same odd expression on their face as they stared up at the menu. They seemed to say, "Well, what now?". They looked beat, the way a person does when life has whacked them in the stomach repeatedly, like a sugared-up 8 year-old does a pinata when the blindfold comes off.

I was dying to know their back story. How did he make enough money to afford to have an escort for so long that he could take her to an amusement park? How did she wind up in Tokyo when she looked like she should be adorning the prow of a Viking longboat? And what in the name of Heaven possessed them to go an amusement park?! When do you rent a high-priced hooker and say "Well, I'm out of ideas. Wanna play skee-ball?". Where in their day had they reached that point? I demand answers. Otherwise I will never understand people with money.

Why isn't someone making a movie about these two, instead of the bullshit where Scarlett Johannsen is bored with Bill Murray? These people are infinitely more interesting to me. I want to know how these two people from completely different worlds made it to that exact moment. The moment where businessman is paying a sex-worker to hang out with him in an indoor amusement park, playing carnival games, trying to decide whether to get noodles or nachos.

Why I Didn't Take the Picture, Reason A:
Sometimes people need their moments. The last thing either Rumpled Japanese Businessman or Bored Russian Prostitute needed that day was some jag-bag with a camera taking giggle-shots from a distance. If I start doing shit like that, then I have to get a job with TMZ and living a life of regret. They had been through enough. Let her make her money. Let him have his fun.

Why I Didn't Take the Picture, Reason B:
She probably had a knife.





Thursday, July 16, 2009

Day 5, Part 2: Odaiba

In keeping with the Day 5 theme of pinballing through the city to the borderlands, we made our way from the Ghibli Museum in Mitaka to Odaiba, which was referred to in the guidebooks as the "Coney Island of Tokyo." Hell to the yeah-uh. I f'ing LOVE Coney Island. Crackheads and tilt-a-whirls? Freak-shows and hot dogs? Bring it. BRING IT. I'm ready for...

Hey, what the hell? It's clean here. And buildings are made of materials other then driftwood and the ghosts of orphans that powered the Cyclone. There isn't one bearded lady here. I am surprised. Obviously, the person who wrote the guidebook had never been to Coney Island.

I wasn't disappointed though. Not at all. Odaiba was great. I thought the Coney Island designation was a bit misleading because while it had gaming and rides and such, it was much like the rest of Tokyo; ultra-modern and multi-faceted. Parts of Coney Island still look like a circus from 1951. And I say that with nothing but love in my heart. We move forward.

Background: Odaiba is a large man-made island sitting in Tokyo Bay. It's been converted from a defensive structure to a full on business/leisure district. You can get there from Tokyo one of two main ways. One is to cross the Rainbow Bridge, and the other...drum roll...


Is a MONORAIL. YES PLEASE. You cannot possibly convince me that Tokyo isn't located in some bizarre time/space pocket that combines the future with the present. It has a functional, fully operational Monorail. And this Monorail (the Yurikamome Line) had a stop directly connected to our hotel. Japan wins.

Monorail. See that? One rail. And see that guy standing at the front? Huh? HE'S NOT THE DRIVER. THERE IS NO DRIVER. ROBOT-POWERED. MONORAIL. Sha-BAM.

Look how calm we are on the robot-powered Monorail.

Here's us passing underneath the Rainbow Bridge, connecting Tokyo to Odaiba, as well as Midgard to Asgard. Look it up, or ask someone who got the Cthulu reference back on Day 2 what is the hell it is I just said.

Tugboats in Tokyo Bay as we draw closer to our destination.

Where we are greeted by Lady Liberty. Oh boy. This...this was awkward. Turns out we'd been in Lower Manhattan this whole week. No wonder people were looking at me funny when I tried to speak Japanese. But wait, that can't be right, I took a 13 hour plane ride. I was confused. There's only one thing to do when you're confused.

Ask a robot. They'll either answer or try to destroy you. Just keep asking until you find one that isn't programmed for murder. Turns out we were in fact in Japan. Whew!

Always good to double-check. Let's look at stuff.

Here's Blue Snoopy, outside the Fuji Building. Is Blue Snoopy his actual name? It is now.

Lunch at Big Chef in Decks, the main amusement center in Odaiba. It tasted way better then it looked.

Decks a wholly owned subsidiary of Happy Flex-Straw.

Post-lunch walk through Decks lead us to various shops of various quality, some of which were located in a part of the complex that for a reason that completely escapes me, was modeled after what pleasure-mall designers think Hong Kong looks like. This is what they came up with. Bang-up job guys. I was almost as confused here as when I saw the Statue of Liberty.

Eh. Close enough.

A more appropriate name for Muscle Park would be Judgment Dome. It sounds like a sweet place that would have batting cages and video games, but really it's a oddly designed place where you pay people to tell you how slow you can throw a ball or how agile you aren't through a series of humiliating, boring "games". Not surprisingly, no pictures were allowed inside, probably because no one wants a stranger documenting their failed attempt at kicking a soccer ball through a hoop held by a cartoon panda.

Also, for place that was supposed to promote activity and athletics, it had a place to eat inside it called Monster Burger, where literally the only thing on the menu was a series of monster burgers, one of which was served on a bed of waffles. So yeah, come here to eat a waffle burger, then throw something and try not to puke.

We escaped the Shame-a-torium that was Muscle Park and ran into the loving arms of the Sega Joypolis. That's the actual name. It claimed to be the largest indoor amusement center in Tokyo, and I had no reason to doubt them. Problem was we couldn't get through this door. What to do?

OMG IT'S LIKE A SPACESHIP AIRLOCK. OMG OMG.

YES.

Virtual Reality AND Interactivity. Believe it.

This is Halfpipe Canyon. Next to it was a ride called Spinning Bullet. If you're prone to seizures, this wasn't the place for you.

Carisa spent approximately $500 on this game.

This is a combo Cylon/Dalek/Locomotive. I've never been more frightened.

While I had my back turned, Carisa wandered over to the new House of the Dead game, which is based around her totally rational fear of zombies. I don't know who gave her the gun, but when I came over seven people were dead and she was screaming. They were surprisingly cool about this. Happens more then you think, apparently.

We finally got outside and started on our way back to Shiodome. Made a few stops.

In Japan, Santa's attained the rank of Captain. Good for him.

Sure. Number One. You can't not like a place with this kind of variety.

We hopped back on the Robot Monorail, straight back to the hotel. Nice work, Odaiba.

We salute you.

Next: Ninja. That's right. Ninja.

Tuesday, July 14, 2009

Day 5: The Ghibli Museum


Day Five, pirates. Let's take the train...

Catch the Cat-Bus in Mitaka...


And go to the Ghibli Museum! All right!


All right!

Studio Ghibli is one of the most celebrated animation studios in the history of cinema. Founded by director Hayao Miyazaki, it's produced such beautiful films as Princess Mononoke, Howl's Moving Castle and Spirited Away, which won the Academy Award for Best Animated Feature and rightly freaking so. The Ghibli Museum was opened by the studio to showcase their filmmaking techniques, their library of work, as well as the various characters from and inspiration for their stories. There is also a small theatre that shows short animated films once every 20 minutes.

The museum itself is designed to resemble a building that might be featured in a Ghibli film. Being a gigundus nerd-face, I agreed to a trip to this museum, located about an hour outside Tokyo-proper, in 0.7 seconds. I'm upset with myself that it took that long.

Ghibli as an institution is surprisingly secretive (Much like Miyazaki, who rarely appears in public). You have to be invited by the museum in order to gain admission, and in order to receive an invitation, you have to submit a letter to the museum through Japanese officials, along with your passport info, explaining why you want to visit the museum. They want to make sure that you are visiting in the spirit, to paraphrase, of wandering together like lost children.

A letter? Citizenship info? This is intense, people. It's like trying to get into an adorable college.

We sent in our letter and info and got the invite, which set our admission time for 10:30 AM. If you missed your entrance time, you weren't let in. Oh. Snap.

This is the bus that picks you up at the train station in Mitaka and drops you off at the museum. It's a bus done up to look like the flying cat-bus from My Neighbor Totoro. It's also covered in characters from various Ghibli movies. What'd you except, the tram from Universal Studios? They've won an Oscar folks. It's cat-bus or nothing.

Pictures are forbidden once inside the museum (Secret Secrets.) but you can take all the shots you want of the exterior. Here are a few of our favorites, which I also think give you a pretty good lay of the land.



This is the robot from Laputa: Castle in the Sky. He lives on the roof of the museum, in a garden.


He loves visitors.


To the left is one of the staircases that takes you through the four floors of complex. In the background is the Straw Hat Cafe (their restaurant), and in the lower foreground (Is that a term? "Lower foreground"? Whatever.) is the courtyard on the first floor. The layout is twisting and maze-like, seemingly random at times, designed, again, to encourage people to wander the grounds with no particular direction in mind. Doors change size. Spiral staircases pop up from nowhere. Every corner of the grounds has something wonderful to look at.


See?

Down in the courtyard.

The view from below.

Well, hello neighbor.

I'll be honest, we couldn't love this place more. I'm a huge, huge fan of Miyazaki ever since I saw Princess Mononoke. However, I do not in any way think that's a pre-requisite for enjoying this museum. Like the films Ghibli makes, the sheer care and detail put into every facet of the building is astonishing and the exhibits, are a joy to behold. I would recommend a trip here to absolutely anyone, any age. How many places on the planet can you say that about?

Well done, Ghibli.


Well done indeed.

Next: Odaiba.